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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family utterly astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble place achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.